Emerging from the sands at one end of Itacoatiara beach in Niterói, there's a massive 250 metre high granite rock called Morro do Costão. Its part of several inselbergs which together form a dramatic backdrop to the beach. Costão is the lower broader one on the right of this photo:
Most parts of Costão are far too steep to climb:
But, around the back, there is a trail which begins by some houses and climbs up through rain-forest. This is within the Tiririca state park, which protects large areas of forested hills along this part of the coast.
From a pass in the forest, its possible to start clambering up the steep bare rock slope of Costão. Its not technical, but its not for everyone. On the other side, rises Mourão which is far steeper, higher and more dangerous to climb.
On the bare rocks, cacti and other succulents cling on.
Approaching the top, its possible to see the trunk of the Elephant Rock plunging vertically into the sea. To make out the Elephant head, you have to go to Itaipuaçu beach, just up the coast.
And then, at the flat summit, there's a greater cover of plants and a small forest. An ecological island.
Amongst the various things you can see are orchids:
Creepers:
Quaresma, which is a small tree found on the coast:
And of course, a view out over the beaches of Niterói and Guanabara bay to the unmistakeable Sugar Loaf in the distance.
Peering over the edge, Itacoatiara beach is 250 metres down below.
Vultures come here to rest:
Take off:
And soar in the thermals:
On the way back down, I'm overtaken by something far quicker than me:
When I was growing up in Brazil, we used to watch the New Year’s eve fireworks from our sailing boat in Guanabara Bay. We’d leave the sailing club in Niterói around nine at night and motor for twenty minutes until we arrived at Icaraí beach, around the headland. Then we’d anchor offshore with the other boats and wait for the next couple of hours, as we sat on deck in anticipation of midnight, watching all the activity on the beach (apart from one year when it rained so heavily that we spent most of our time sheltering in the wet and crowded cabin!). My favourite part, as we waited, was seeing the African Bahiana women, dressed in their traditional white dresses and headscarves, walking down to the water’s edge and pushing out candle-lit floats, in the shape of a fishing boat, to sea. Most boats would last only a few minutes before being turned over by the waves and sinking offshore. Others were luckier, got past the waves and were blown further into the bay. Always, my wish was that one would come close enough so that I could rescue it from the sea, but it never happened, and I don’t think my parents agreed with my suggestion of going after them in our boat!
This year, twenty-six years later, I’ve been seeing stranded boats and remnants of offerings (flowers, food, drink, cigars) on the local beaches, starting a few days before the end of the year.
Here are some photos:
Flower offering on a boat, washed onto the beach
Boat drifting out to sea at night
Food and drink offering
Candle-lit offering
The offerings are rituals belonging to Umbanda, a Brazilian religion which mixes African animism, Portuguese Catholicism and indigenous shamanism. It began to develop on the sugar-cane plantations and in runaway settlements during the period of slavery. African religions were persecuted, but still carried on being practiced in secrecy, developing into Candomblé, which includes chanting, possession by the spirits and the reverence of various gods (Orixás). Umbanda itself, with its greater integration of Catholic elements, such as the reverence of Jesus, God, saints and traditional rituals, was accepted to a greater degree, despite it still having to hide clearly African elements in secret meetings, or using a statue of Jesus to really represent an African Orixá!
This year, I decided to head back to Icaraí to celebrate the New Year. When I arrived at the end of the headland, I saw the yachts anchored offshore and a beach packed full of families sitting on the sand, kids running around and jumping in the sea, a large crowd dancing to a Samba singer on stage and a couple of white tents lit up by candles. It all looked familiar and I was glad it was all the same.
I headed to the first tent, hearing the Umbanda singing and drumming from the back of the beach. Under white tarpaulins, lit up by candles on the sand between miniatures of Jesus, Mary and slaves, real men and women were dressed in white- men pounding drums, women singing in formation and dancing in the sand. I found it amazing to watch. There was tons of energy and I recognized some of the songs and beats which now form part of Samba.
Umbanda drummers in the first gathering:
Further on, there was another gathering, where young women dressed in white were re-enacting something akin to Mary and the scene of newly-born Jesus in a barn, while a line of women sang enthusiastically and young men pounded on African barrel-drums:
While watching, I began chatting to one of the party, which came by coach from the town of Três Rios, on the border with Minas Gerais, old coffee country. They come to Icaraí every year to celebrate the New Year and pay tribute to the spirit of the sea. At the back, a couple of miniature boats were lit up by candles and children slept in an army-style tent, where it was going to stay until they left tomorrow afternoon.
Later on, a possessed Candomblé figure gyrated in the sand:
An elderly woman dancing, holding a coconut shell full of cachaça, while drummers pound (and the possessed figure again makes a brief appearance!):
Then the fireworks started, first in Icaraí and almost simultaneously on the opposite side of the bay in Flamengo, below Corcovado. A few seconds later, the sky lit up above Copacabana and the tops of the highest fireworks could be seen in the gap between the Sugar Loaf and Morro do Morcego. Minutes later, the fireworks of Penha began, for the first time in many years, after the November police invasion, drug smuggler eviction and pacification of the Complexo do Alemao favela.
The skyline of Rio, Corcovado and fireworks on Flamengo (to the sound of people and fireworks in Icaraí!):
Above Copacabana, the sky is lit up, and the tops of fireworks can be seen behind the Sugar Loaf:
Umbanda and four simultaneous firework displays in one night. An exciting and exotic start to 2011!
When I was a kid, growing up in Brazil, we would often spend the day after Christmas on the beach.
This year I did the same, heading out to one of my favourite beaches- Itacoatiara, a half-hour bus-ride up the coast from Niteroi.
The mountain back-drop is stunning, the sea is clean and there's usually good surf (in the winter the waves are massive and there are dangerous currents, but at this time of year its calm enough to swim a lap or two of the beach, beyond the waves).
Here are some guys playing the popular and skillful Altinho football game:
Behind the beach, there are bars serving limonada suiça (frothy Swiss lemonade, made of green limes), açai (palm-berry sorbet) and empadas de camarao (prawn pastries). They serve other things too, but these are my favourite.
For €1 per day, you can hire a chair and beach umbrella from any of the beach kiosks, which also serve coconut-water and are handy for safe-guarding things when you go for a swim.
The sun is intense, so remember your hat and sun-screen, and the sand at the top of the beach is ember-hot, so take your Havaianas. Sungas and tangas aren't needed, unless you want to look like a true native.
Last of all, if you're a balanced sort of person, try this:
